You needn't go looking for round high-speed tool bits, just grind the corners off a square one til it fits through the somewhat over size cross hole you've drilled in the bar.drill/tap for a set-screw, obviously. (as the wood wears in, snug the fit with the clamp, keeping plenty of oil on the bar) Shim up or plane the blocks as needed so that, when they are firmly clamped up in position, the boring bar turns freely, but with no axial play. The wooden blocks would need to be clamped up in position at each end of the workpiece, with the idea that the boring tool would feed through the steel and into the wood at the end of the cut. Obviously, you'd want your hardwood blocks to be at least one bar diameter thick, with the bore in the blocks initially bored to. Split the 'bearings' on one side, use a c-clamp to 'adjust' the bearing-clearance as needed, use plenty of oil, and you'll be surprised just how well the hardwood will work as a bearing. You can use a good hardwood, preferably hard maple, as improvised 'bearings' for your boring bar. If you really must try making up some sort of boring-bar, just for the challenge of finding a way to fake up this job, alright, lets go way back into history, and do as some of the old-time millwrights would have done. If you were in a mine, mill, or logging camp many miles from nowhere, or on a ship at sea, well, that would be a different story. Use slightly oversized pillow block mounting holes to dial in to fine tolerance (if you can with a typical wallowed out holeįrom the description you've provided, there's really no time-effective way you can do that job with the tooling at hand. To rig at both ends (boring bar is the guide to keep things parallel and aligned.) Rough align with collars, tack weld pillow block The pillow blocks are bolted to a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plate steel which can be made very fancy with angle iron legs to be tack welded to boom/bucket or dipstick itself. You can use these later for feed (see below) For low precision bucket work you can make (in you case)1 5/16 collars that slide on bar to get things roughly centered in worn hole. Turn one (or both ends down for an inch or so to hold Biggest Hand drill you have (1/2, 5/8, 3/4)īar will need to be polished a bit to slide smoothly through pillow blocks.Īs to aligning. Rotate bar 90 degrees and drill setscrew hole and tap for allen head set screw to lock 1/4 in cutter in position. Get some 1/4 in round HSS cutting stock (even Grizzley stocks it)ĭrill 1/4 in holes in boring bar for cutters where needed for bushing /pin holes. Make boring bar out of about a foot longer than width of pin holes, 1 inch whatever steel (Not commercial use here) Get 2ea 1 inch pillow blocks (Flange mount style make life easier.) Or for a low use, say 3/4 plate steel with a 1 ID running bushing You need to taper the hole in the ears so you can get a welding pass inside also.1 1/4 is a bit small for the whole lineboring deal. If your bucket ears are worn into the bucket, I have had a bushing (donut) made and cut the hole out in the bucket ears (with a torch) and put a temporary pin in both bushing to align the bushings (donuts) together. It should have made them cut it off and do it right.Ī lot of times, you can buy bushing stock from machine shops, cheaper than the dealer, it may not be to specs (hardness) but if youre digging in mud it really doesnt matter, they both are going to wear out, so to me the cheaper is better A friend of mine had this done and they didnt get it welded true to the stick and the bucket was always at a slight angle and trying to dig a flat bottom ditch with a angled bucket, isnt easy. VERY IMPORTANT!!!! make sure they weld the new end, properly aligned with the stick. Get a machine shop to remove the old end, make you a new one and weld it back on. They must be tight or they will just wear out quicker. When you get it to fit tight all the way in, take it out and clean it good and put Loctite on the bushing and drive them in. Example, if the OD of the bushing is 2 1/4", use a 2 " grinding wheel on a large die grinder or fast turning drill. Its best to use just a under size grinding wheel to keep it round. Remove the bushings and weld the worn areas and use a grinding stone to grind the weld, so the bushing will fit tight, keep checking the bushing and pin so they fit proper. Quick way Redneck way (Im a Redneck, so I can say this) I have done it the quick way and the proper way
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